This is the Thursday, July 18 edition of Food Crawl, the Star’s weekly food newsletter. Sign up to get it in your inbox every week.
The humble breakfast sandwich has come a long way from the bacon, egg and English muffin template. Many places across the city are now creating their own versions that are worth getting up early for. From vegan-friendly iterations to cultural mashups that incorporate kimchi and sweet pineapple buns, here are four breakfast sandwiches worth checking out.
The Fried Chicken and Avocado Pineapple Bun from Café de Hong Kong
Among the crop of Hong Kong-style cafes (known as cha-chan-tang or bing sut in Cantonese) that have popped up in recent years, Café de Hong Kong, which opened in 2021 in a little plaza just south of First Markham Centre, remains one of the busiest.
So what’s the hype about? Aside from most menu items costing less than $15, they make the tallest, absolute bang-for-your-buck fried chicken sandwich for $10.79, which includes a tea or coffee to boot! Sandwiched in a toasted pineapple bun, named after the sugary topping that resembles the outer skin of a pineapple (there’s no actual fruit in the bun), are two large pieces of brined dark chicken meat with a thick, dark brown and crispy coating, along with tomato, iceberg lettuce, house-made mayo and a creamy avocado sauce. It’s a sandwich that has to be deconstructed with a knife and fork, but as long as every bite has the soft bun with a bit of the sweet crust, the refreshing crispness of the lettuce and tomato, the creaminess of the sauces and the juicy, crunchy chicken, you’re good.
Where to get it: Café de Hong Kong is at the First Markham Centre plaza, 11 Fairburn Dr. Unit 12-15 at Rodick Road. It is not on delivery apps and there is no website. It is open 10 a.m. to 7 p.m. Wednesday to Monday. It is closed on Tuesdays.
The VAM from AM Bagel
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The VAM from AM Bagel.Â
Karon LiuThis $10 bagel sandwich window gets points for having a menu that’s half-vegan. Its closest vegan item to the typical fast food breakfast sandwich is the VAM, a version of their bacon and egg sandwich (called the AM), which has a chickpea patty made to resemble scrambled eggs; a housemade textured vegetable protein (TVP) patty to replace the breakfast sausage; and melted vegan cheddar. Taste-wise, the natural nuttiness and denser texture of chickpeas isn’t going to fool anyone into thinking they’re eating eggs, but its thick, hummus-like texture goes well with a toasted bagel. (The peppery patty is seasoned more like its meat counterpart.) The shop uses Gryfe’s Bagels and offers sesame, double poppy, everything, whole grain flax, cinnamon raisin, sea salt and plain. I went with the everything bagel to add umami flavour from the garlic and onion.. Other vegan offerings include carrot lox and vegan cream cheese, a beetroot hummus with dukkah (a Middle Eastern condiment of herbs, spices and nuts), avocado and alfalfa sprouts. Gluten-free toast is also available.
Where to get it: AM Bagel is at 53 Roncesvalles Ave. at Harvard Avenue. You can order for pickup or delivery through its site. It is open 8 a.m. to 3 p.m. Tuesday to Friday; 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. Saturday and Sunday. It is closed on Mondays.
The Bulgogi and Kimchi Sandwich from Mini Bar
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The Bulgogi and Kimchi Sandwich from Mini Bar.Â
Karon LiuMany of my coworkers and I head to this reliable hole-in-the-wall takeout sandwich shop in the Reading Building. There’s the usual omelette, egg salad and cold-cut-sandwich offerings, but the star is the bulgogi and kimchi sandwich, $7.99. Thinly shaved soy-marinated beef with sour and spicy kimchi along with mayo, American cheese, iceberg lettuce and sliced tomato on a fluffy kaiser roll all go together to form an elevated Big Mac: tender beef with a pop of crunch and tang from the kimchi mixing with the mayo to create its own special sauce. For fans of NYC bodegas, it’s the closest thing you’ll get to ordering a chopped cheese.
Where to get it: Mini Bar is located at 116 Spadina Ave. at Camden Street. It is not on delivery apps. It is open Monday to Friday 7 a.m. to 3 p.m. and closed on weekends. There are three steps down to get in.
The Ham and Cheese from EggClub
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The Ham and Cheese from EggClub.
Karon LiuThe Japanese-style egg sandwich shop first opened in 2020 and has four Toronto locations. What sets it apart is that it uses shokupan, Japanese bread that’s chewier and fluffier with a subtle milky flavour compared to its western counterparts. The scrambled egg it holds is more jiggly, airy and moist as it’s folded on to itself multiple times like a very thick omelet and are taken off the flattop before they become bone-dry and dull in colour. The topping options are kept simple as to not overshadow the eggs as the star, so either go with the classic plain egg that comes with a sweet and creamy house sauce somewhere between kewpie mayo and hollandaise in taste, or like I did, you can add some thinly sliced deli ham and melted cheddar to add another layer of saltiness (both cost just $8.49).
Where to get it: Check Egg Club’s site for pickup and delivery info, as well as hours and addresses of each location. It is on DoorDash and SkipTheDishes.
Before you go, I have a few more recommendations:
• This Toronto food entrepreneur’s ready-made picnics pay homage to her Anishinaabe roots
Check out these four spots I added to my alternative Toronto Michelin Guide.
• Here are my top picks for takeout under $10 in Toronto.
• Canada’s 100 Best Restaurants list is finally out. These are the Toronto spots that made the cut.
• This Mississauga family restaurant radiates retro vibes. Here’s why it stands out.
• This beloved Toronto restaurant serves a weekly Jewish brunch buffet — but that’s not all it’s known for.
Thanks for reading. I’ll see you back here next week.
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