You have the universe to thank for the unique landscape of rolling hills and flat plains that set Charlevoix’s coastal area along the St. Lawrence River apart from the rocky Laurentian Mountains in its interior.
Around 400 million years ago, a meteorite, at least two kilometres in diameter and weighing 15 billion tonnes, slammed into Charlevoix, with the centre of its impact near the present-day community of Les Éboulements — itself named for another natural disaster, an earthquake that shock the region in 1663.
The story of that galactic impact in the region’s ancient past is recounted at the Observatoire de l’Astroblème de Charlevoix, an interpretive centre in the city of La Malbaie. There you can not only hold meteorites in your hands but see an interactive display of the region and learn how its present-day geography was shaped by that astronomical event.
Today, La Malbaie — roughly an hour-and-a-half drive from Quebec City — and its surrounding area is a picturesque escape that is an hour’s drive from arguably the best whale watching in the world, one of Canada’s grand hotels, and some of the most beautiful and historic towns in the province.
Where to start
According to legend, La Malbaie got its name in 1608, when Samuel de Champlain was exploring this section of the St. Lawrence River and could not find a good place to anchor his ship. “Bad bay” translates as “mal baie” in French and “malle-baye” in Latin.
But Champlain is in no way the most famous visitor to the region — and the others actually like this stretch of the river. From May to October, 13 species of whales, among them are humpbacks, blue, fin, beluga and minke whales, are known to converge in this portion of the seaway.
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Whale watching with AML Cruises.
ContributedIt is part of the Saguenay—St-Lawrence Marine Park, a 1,246-square-kilometer conservation area that was established in 1998. The purpose of the national reserve is to protect the 2,200 marine species that are found here, including several types of seals.
One reason the whales are attracted to the region is that the seabed in this portion of the St. Lawrence just east of the city of Tadoussac drops from a few metres to hundreds. Krill, a key source of food for whales, will flow upriver from the ocean and congregate in this area — turning it into an abundant, seasonal buffet for whales.
You can discover this and more at the Saguenay—St-Lawrence Marine Park Visitor Centre in Saint-Fidèle, less than a 15-minute drive east of La Malbaie, where you can learn about whale watching etiquette, and watch the from shore at the Pointe-Noire Interpretation and Observation Centre in Baie-Sainte-Catherine. As well, AML Cruises offers zodiac or boat excursions from Baie-Sainte-Catherine to see the whales in their natural habitat.
What to do
You can uncover more of the region’s history and culture at the Musée de Charlevoix in La Malbaie. The museum is home to four exhibition halls — one is outdoors — that contain permanent and temporary displays chronicling the story of life in this corner of Quebec. Don’t leave without visiting its rooftop terrace with its amazing river views, and its outdoor sculpture garden full of whimsical creations.
Be sure to also visit L’ĂŽle MystĂ©rieuse, a restaurant in La Malbaie that is home to The Jules Verne Space. It is a large exhibition hall full of objects related to the science fiction author and his works, which include books such as “Journey to the Center of the Earth,” “20,000 Leagues Under the Sea” and its sequel, “The Mysterious Island.” The objects, which span more than 125 years, include posters, models, books, 3D slides and other collectibles.
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Cité Mémoire Charlevoix
ContributedOnce the sun sets, head out and explore the community by following the Cité Mémoire Charlevoix circuit. This multimedia experience, where projections are displayed and stories are told through augmented reality, is completely free. Download the Cité Mémoire app to discover the more than 60 points of interest, five augmented reality experiences, five projections and listen to an informative podcast.
And no trip to La Malbaie would be complete without playing a round of golf. The Fairmont Le Manoir Richelieu Golf Club features a world-class 27-hole course designed by Canadian golf architect Darrell Huxham. The bentgrass-covered course is among the most popular in Canada thanks to its many trees, mounds, green contours and large bunkers, all of which are carved into the side of a hill overlooking the St. Lawrence.
Not far away, the Murray Bay Golf Club is home to an 18-hole, par 68 course and features a history that dates back to the late-1800s. It also features an 18-hole putting green, a small nine-hole course, practice range and club house with a restaurant and bar.
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Fairmont Le Manoir Richelieu Golf Club
ContributedWhere to stay
But, for a truly historic experience, check into the Fairmont Le Manoir Richelieu, which is celebrating its 125th anniversary this year and has hosted several important events, including as the venue of the G7 summit in 2018. Nestled on a cliff overlooking the St. Lawrence River, the 19th-century-styled manor features 405 guest rooms and suites, onsite restaurants and a bar, and the Moment Spa, where you can where you can experience relaxing bliss.
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La Grande Tyrolienne Du Manoir Richelieu
ContributedThe hotel is also home to a wellness centre with pools, gym, a family friendly mini golf experience, La Grande Tyrolienne du Manoir Richelieu, a 400-metre long zipline that starts from the roof of the hotel and reaches speeds of 50 kilometres per hour, and the Via ferrata La Charlevoix, a 500-metre-long climbing route set into the cliffs beneath the hotel.
For its anniversary, the Manoir Richelieu is celebrating with a special exhibit in the hotel in partnership with collaboration with Cité Mémoire Charlevoix — called 125 Years of History — is collaboration with local partners to create exclusive products and plans some other special programming in the months ahead. And, while there, be sure to try your luck at the Casino de Charlevoix, which is located next to the hotel. It is home to several slot machines and a variety of table games, several bars and restaurants.
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When it comes to your choice of where to stay while in the La Malbaie region, there is no shortage options. Other great properties in the community include the nine-charming rooms at the Auberge La Marmite, an inn dating from 1888, or the Auberge des 3 Canards that features 48 rooms, an onsite dinning room. There is also the Auberge des Falaises that includes a Nordic spa with hot pools, sauna, cold pool, heated rest areas and a swimming pool.
Visit tourisme-charlevoix.com for more ideas on what to see and do in La Malbaie and the Charlevoix region.