Food Crawl: 4 must-try Indian restaurants in downtown Toronto

The Bhindi Bhaji lunch special from Utsav Restaurant

Since 2000, this easy-to-miss restaurant has been one of the few Yorkville places to dine well on a budget. For $18, the bhindi bhaji is a filling dish of chopped okra in a gingery tomato and onion curry that gives an herbal, slightly nutty flavour and gentle crunch that plays off the accompanying basmati rice and buttery blistered naan. It also comes with a house salad simply dressed with olive oil, salt and a lemony vinaigrette so as not to muddle the taste buds once the mains arrive. For those adverse to okra, this is a good dish to get over your fears: okra works great in stewed dishes because it acts as a thickener and blends seamlessly with the cooked-down tomatoes.  

Pair it with a mango lassi, $7, a cool and fruity summertime drink akin to a milkshake that’s ideal for tempering spicy dishes.

Where to get it: Utsav Restaurant is on the lower level of 69 Yorkville Ave. at Bay Street. It is open daily for lunch 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. and dinner 5 p.m. to 10 p.m. There are a few steps to get down into the restaurant. Take out is available through Hungry Panda, Fantuan, Ritual, Uber Eats and DoorDash.

The Spinach and Tofu Dosa from My Dosa Place

This local chain focuses on the dosa, a large and delicately crispy stuffed crepe made from ground lentils. This place has the usual masala- and curry-leaf spiced potato filling found at most dosa spots, but it’s the less orthodox ones that are worth a try. The tofu and kale dosa, $14.99, reminds me of a vegan take on palak paneer with medium-firm cubes of tofu used in place of the Indian cheese. The spinach, cooked down to be smooth and creamy, makes it easy to scoop up with pieces of the slightly tangy and savoury crepe you break off with your fingers. The spinach adds an element of velvety, salty richness; the tofu adds a firm slightly chewy bite and the dosa is the perfect vehicle to pick up the filling. Each dosa comes with a thick sambar (a lentil stew) alongside coconut-ginger and tomato chutneys for dipping.

Where to get it: There are multiple locations of My Dosa Place throughout the GTA. Check their site for addresses and hours. Takeout can be done directly through its site, but dosas are meant to be eaten while they’re still hot and crispy so opt for dining in rather than takeout.

The Vegetarian Thali from Bhoj Indian Cuisine

Just a few steps south of Spadina station is this cosy corner restaurant that recently moved from its Davenport location. The menu draws from multiple regions of India; from the thick, creamy curries of the north to seafood from the coast. But one of my favourite things to order is the lunchtime thali, $15.95 to $18.95, a complete meal sampler with buttered naan, papadum, jeera rice (cumin-scented rice), raita, salad, kheer (sweet rice pudding), stewed lentils and a choice of curry such as vegetarian, chicken or lamb. For the vegetarian option, I opted for the aloo gobi because the curried cauliflower and potatoes have a mild kick — if you like heat ask for spicy — and a pleasant tender-crispy contrast to the softened lentils and rice. Pro tip: save the spoon that arrives on the plate for the kheer as your dessert at the end.

Where to get it: Bhoj Indian Cuisine is at 673 Spadina Ave. at Sussex Road. It is open every day 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.  Takeout is available by contacting the restaurant directly, but a thali is best enjoyed when the spread is laid in front of you at the table. Washrooms are down a flight of stairs.

The Mutton Kothu Paratha from Madras Masala

For the meat portion of this week’s Food Crawl, hit this South Indian spot that specializes in dosas, biryanis and an equal selection of vegetarian and meat dishes. The kothu parathas, a menu standout, are shredded flaky rounds of layered dough, stir-fried with vegetables, eggs and meat. Taste-wise, it’s quite close to its cousin the kothu roti, which is commonly found in Toronto, but nonetheless it’s worth trying this regional variation: the chewy flatbread is tossed with aromatics like chilies and curry leaves till it gets a hint of smokiness comparable to wok hay. While there is a vegetarian version of the kothu paratha with potatoes, I opted for the deep, earthy flavour of mutton, which pairs well with the pow of spices. I’d go for at least medium heat as the chilies really bring out the other aromatics and make the accompanying raita taste that much more cooling. 

Where to get it: Madras Masala is at 796 Bloor St. W. at Crawford Street. It is open Monday to Thursday 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. and 5 p.m. to 10:15 p.m.; Friday and Saturday 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m., and 5 p.m. to 10:30 p.m.; and Sunday noon to 3 p.m. and 5 p.m. to 10:30 p.m. There are a few steps to get into the restaurant. Takeout can be ordered directly from the restaurant’s site, but like a crispy dosa, a kothu paratha is best eaten immediately or else it can get gummy.

Before you go, I have a few more recommendations:

• This Toronto food entrepreneur’s ready-made picnics pay homage to her Anishinaabe roots

Check out these four spots I added to my alternative Toronto Michelin Guide.

• Here are my top picks for takeout under $10 in Toronto.

• Canada’s 100 Best Restaurants list is finally out. These are the Toronto spots that made the cut.

• This Mississauga family restaurant radiates retro vibes. Here’s why it stands out.

• This beloved Toronto restaurant serves a weekly Jewish brunch buffet — but that’s not all it’s known for.

Thanks for reading. I’ll see you back here next week.